Hobby Highlight: Alternative Coaching Assistant tutorial

The Greatest Sport in the Galaxy has a cast of colorful characters.  Thirty distinct teams have spent time on the DreadBall pitch, throwing strikes and taking slams.  It’s a randy rainbow.  It’s majestic mayhem.

But the sidelines cannot be forgotten.  Cheerleaders rally the crowd, Elmer and Dobbs call out Events, and the Eye-In-The-Sky surveils.  All in colorful chaos.  Also present?  Assistant coaches!

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DreadBall has a deep field of unique assistant coaching models.  However, adding additional staff is very easy and inexpensive.

I fancy some relatively bizarre things.  So I found their miniature equivalent and turned them into coaching assistants!

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Would BreadDoll readers like to create their own?  It can be accomplished in short order.  A step-by-step tutorial below:

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Step 1. Find your coaches! DreadBall is a science fiction game and fortunately, there are a lot of appropriately themed models available. However, even non sci-fi models can be a joy to see on a sideline. The various Clix models shown were purchased for less than 1 USD a piece.
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Step 1 continued… Star Wars miniatures. STAR WARS for life!  Again, all models were purchased for less than 1 USD a piece.
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Step 2. Basing. Plopping a miniature from another game onto the DreadBall pitch is not acceptable, and BreadDoll readers are no rubes. Grab your hexes! Official Mantic hexes may need filler for models to properly stand. Save time using Gale Force Nine masonite hexes.
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Step 3. Prime baby, PRIME! Army Painter Matt Black conveniently matches their drop bottle color. Convenience is a time saver, and saving time is saving money.
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Step 4. “Cut me Mick!” Get a fresh blade on the hobby knife to prepare for slicing. For this tutorial, a “Moon Tactics Broker” and “Dr. Harleen Quinzel” are going under the scalpel.
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Step 5. Low and slow, cut the model at the bottom with the blade flush against the base. Depending on the material, several small cuts may be necessary. When in doubt, it’s best to cut into the base with the anticipation of cleaning off excess after the figure is detached.
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Step 6. Clean off any excess material from the bottom of the model and make certain it can rest level on the hex base.
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Step 7. Prior to mounting, score the bottom of the model with a cross hatching pattern. These marks will help the adhesive.
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Step 8. Glue. Regardless of adhesive, less is more! Small amounts will suffice. Large amounts will look sloppy.
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Step 9. Touch-ups.  If any areas at the base need attention, the Army Painter Matt Black can be used to cover over areas of glue fogging and/or raw material.

Finished!  Easy, inexpensive, and most important – FUN.

Would any BreadDoll readers like to receive an alternative assistant coach?  Subscribe to our BreadDoll blog between 7/31/18 and 8/6/18.  We’ll randomly select someone, and mail a mini after we return from Gen Con.

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Hobby Highlight: Miniature Superlatives

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December 26,2012 > June 11, 2018

I am DONE.  I have painted everything for DreadBall.  And then some…

My gaming club (CORT) went “all-in” for the first two DreadBall Kickstarter campaigns, and I grabbed the 2nd Edition Kickstarter bundle.  As part of our acquisition program, I made a commitment to my mates that I would paint the entire lot.

I initially anticipated twelve teams, a few giants, and a handful of MVPs.   That was an ambitious, but manageable oath.  Then, there was another set of teams, giants, and MVPs.  Not to mention a new game.  Then, there was a second edition.  Not to mention new, second edition components.  My commitment had serious “mission creep.”

Every team, MVP, Giant, Staff, Accessory…  Done.  600 plus models.  It was a hell of a project, and now I’m going to go drink a beer. Maybe more.

[returning to the keyboard after two pints]

In the five and a half years it took to paint these little galactic athletes, I learned a lot.  Miniature painting is a peculiar past time that affords moments of clarity on various topics; health, wellness, legacy, relationships, endurance, persistence, and dedication to name a few.  Practically, I did learn a bit about pushing wet pigment around on toys.

Below lies my assessment of DreadBall miniatures.  I call the proceedings my “DreadBall Superlatives.”  Fourteen Rushes, fourteen categories.  These opinions are mine and mine alone.  All of this took longer that I’ll ever admit.  Please share your opinions on my purely subjective distinctions in the comments.

Bur first, there are preambles!

I.  I chose very early to mimic the color (ahem, colour) schemes of Mantic’s production photos.  In part because I wanted to challenge myself, and also because I thought it would be a soft promotional tactic when fielding the teams in public spaces.

II.  I used Army Painter primer and paints.  I used a combination of Army Painter and Citadel tones/washes.

III.  I chose very early to strive for “table top standard.”  My gaming club plays games.  We don’t paint games.  We’re middle aged men with eye glasses to see, and pint glasses to drink beer.  None of us are scrutinizing the level of miniature detail from 30″ away.  Also, time.  With several hundred miniatures to paint,  aiming for “TTS” quality helped move the process along.

[Lengthy diatribe] Despite being a professional artist, I only began painting miniatures in 2010 with Games Workshop’s 3rd edition of Space Hulk.  This relatively new past time has been an interesting diversion from my normal studio practice of painting larger works on canvas.  In one way, painting a miniature is instant gratification.  I can finish a “TTS” miniature within a day, whereas a canvas may sometimes take three months.  In another way, painting a miniature is like a glorified coloring book.  I’m slapping paint onto a fully realized image that happens to be three-dimensional.  The process is fun, but it’s technique driven and strictly complementary/secondary to the work of the illustrator & sculptor.  As such, it’s no where near as rewarding or fulfilling for me as creating unique works from conception to final execution.

SUPERLATIVE CRITERIA

Form follows function.  In Dreadball, this refers to a) the physical game, and b) the theme.

a) [Lengthier diatribe] DreadBall is a board game.  It just happens to be a board game published by a miniatures gaming company.  Consequently, DreadBall has many miniature game trappings.  Nonetheless, there is a cardinal rule that must be observed in board gaming – FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION.  If Coaches are not familiar with this concept, it’s a phrase coined by the exemplary American architect Louis Sullivan.  DreadBall is a tactical sport, and positioning is a vital concept for game mastery.  Positioning is based on a hex (pun not intended).  The hex is tantamount.  The hex is the alpha and the omega.  A DreadBall miniature merely rests on top of the hex.  The miniature must be subservient to the hex in order for the game to function.  If a miniature crosses the plain of it’s own hex, it disrupts adjacent hexes and the miniatures that rest upon them.  An illustrator and a sculptor must be cognizant of this fact.  Often they are not.  It does not matter how clever/unique/original a player design may appear.  If the physical sculpture breaks the hex plain – it sucks.  Creativity must materialize within the parameters of game play.  The parameter is the hex.  Break the hex, and the miniature is broke.  If that conceit reads broken to any Coaches – go play a war game with a ruler.

b) DreadBall is the greatest sport in the galaxy.  It’s science fiction.  The miniatures need to aesthetically complement the setting.  Sculptors and illustrators have a wide berth in this case with only two requirements: science fiction and sports.  Nonetheless, some DreadBall miniatures look like they belong in entirely different genres.

Also, humor.  DreadBall is dealing with an absurd premise.  Intergalactic warring factions of outrageously different species are competing in an organized and sanctioned sport.  It’s preposterous.  If illustrators and sculptors (and game designers and flavor writers) can embrace the ludicrous theme – so much the better.  In my opinion, games that are heavily miniaturized need more levity.  Coaches, check yourself and lighten up.  We’re playing Space Jam.

Without further ado, here’s are Prof Wojo’s DreadBall Miniature Superlatives!

1.  BEST TEAM SCLUPT = Marauders

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One of the first two teams onto the pitch, the Orx and Goblins perfectly embody the theme of DreadBall. Criticism can be laid on their similarity to other sports titles as well as a 1/3 of the positions missing (Strikers). Still, these sculpts are varied, unique, and charmingly reflective of the greatest sport in the galaxy.

WORST TEAM SCLUPT = Koris

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In what will become multiple appearances on this superlative list, the Koris are my biggest disappointment. Their illustrations were so rich and their gimmicky game design is so much fun. But never has a team fallen so short from conception to execution. The Koris details are soft and/or absent, the mold lines are legion, and the scale is woefully small.

2.  BEST TEAM CAPTAIN SCULPT = Reek Rolat and Raiden (TIE)

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Once a former MVP, Reek ‘Payback’ Rolat was transitioned into a Team Captain for the second edition.  He belongs with his Veer-myn.  A super sized, crunchy Guard with the armor and “Mantic Straps” all-over.  Raiden is the best embodiment of the Team Captain sculpt: distinct but recognizable.  How do you improve on a team of mean green sumo lizards?  Put some ceremonial armor on him.

WORST TEAM CAPTAIN SCULPT = Kal Terza and Supreme Leader (TIE)

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Are these truly the “worst” Team Captain sculpts?  No.  But they are the laziest.  In the transition between editions, TWO teams were left without a Team Captain sculpt; the Hobgoblins and the Teratons. The Hobgoblins got a unique sculpt for their Team Captain. The Teratons? Not so much. It’s just a Teraton Keeper.  A nice model, if only a subtle modification from a Guard.  But it’s no Team Captain.  The Martians Supreme Leader… Oh where to start… Never mind that the Supreme Leader would never disgrace himself on a DreadBall pitch.  These superlatives are about the hobby.  No, this Team Captain is the worst because it’s miniature is from an entirely different game with no modifications to allow it function on a DreadBall pitch.

3.  BEST MVP SCULPT = Buzzcut

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Dashing pose. Dynamic armor. Deadly snarl. Buzzcut can ram through Morg n’ Thorg any day. This miniature is the embodiment of a Most Valued Player.

WORST MVP SCLUPT = ORABB1

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What could have been! ORABB1 is a rogue medi-bot. That’s a fascinating premise to build upon. Unfortunately, this build is horrible. A five piece metal horror show that can barely withstand game play regardless of adhesive. But the most egregious part is the robot’s scale.
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A DreadBall model LITERALLY comes up short. To the left, an excellent model of a medi-bot. To the right, a catastrophe.

4.  BEST SUPPORT STAFF SCULPT = Fergus (Mercury)

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DreadBall has so many incredible, and incredibly funny, coaches. Fergus steals the show. Bling, blabber, and boast. 100% perfect.

WORST SUPPORT TEAM SCLUPT = Cheerleaders

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Get woke. Seriously. You’re telling me that in a game system about galactic conflict, all cheerleaders are scantily clad female humans? Listen, this writer is a cisgender heterosexual male who loves female homosapiens with hourglass figures. But this is ridiculous. The gaming industry can do better. Lets get some Judwan cheerleaders. Lets get some Matsudan cheerleaders.

5.  BEST PRONE SCLUPT = Teraton

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Prone models are awesome, and they help make DreadBall unique.  If a coach doesn’t use a prone model for a fallen player – they are committing an atrocity worse than drowning kittens. Laying your model on the pitch?  Go play another sports game.  A prone model abides by the law. The law of ‘form follows function.’  It just so happens that the prone model for the Teratons is LOL.

WORST PRONE SCULPT? = Nameless

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I’m no longer convinced this is the worst prone sculpt.  Honestly, there is no bad prone sculpt in the DreadBall line.  Perhaps the Hobgoblins, only because their pose is too dramatic.  But the Nameless get the nod here for… squishiness.

6.  BEST GIANT SCULPT = Brank ‘Boom-Fist’

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He commands attentions.  Big, bold, and battle armored.  Giant design space is awkward, filling into a three-hex base.  Brank is not totally in the clear in these regards, but he’s less egregious than others.

WORST GIANT SCLUPT = Karadon

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I love Karadon.  I hate Karadon.  It what should be the coolest and funniest model in the DreadBall line, Coaches are left with a model best suited for Team Captain.
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Karadon is truly, the “littiest giant.” For shame.  To the left, MVP (NON Giant) Grak.  To the right, MVP (NON Giant) Buzzcut.

7.  BEST IP (Intellectual Property) SCULPT = Hector Weiss

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I support various IPs entering the DreadBall pitch.  In science fiction, anything goes!  For those fantasy nuts still reading, just say, “A wizard did it!”  Hector Weiss is a clever nod to what I believe is a often over/under looked inspiration – Speedball 2.  I hope we’ll see second edition stats for him in the future.

WORST IP SCLUPT = Judge Dredd

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An active NPC model of the pitch?  DreadBall ticks off another mark for originality.  Referees are awesome, albeit completely ridiculous from a thematic point of view.  Alternative referees?  Yes please!  And so there is Judge Dredd.  Perfect fit, with witty rules to boot.  Except…
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The cast for Judge Dredd is tragic.  Underneath Dredd’s right epilate, is a gapping hole.  It’s not just my one sculpt.  It’s every one of my EIGHT Dredd sculpts (I once hosted a Judge Dredd DreadBall tournament).  This never should have happened.

8.  BEST COMPONENT SCULPT = Eye in the Sky

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What an upgrade!  Again with the absurdities; an anthropomorphic eye-in-the-sky is decidedly backward thinking when it comes to science fiction.  It’s almost charming its so naive.  But it’s funny and flavorful.  I’ll take more please.

WORST COMPONENT SCULPT = DreadBall & Base(s) (2nd edition)

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Cool idea.  Crummy execution.  The miniature bases are not compatible with first edition models, and the ball peg’s fit into either base is unreliable.  Sad Coach.

9.  BEST TROPHY = Azure Forest

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Originally, I thought the idea of DreadBall miniature trophies was daft.  No longer!  They’re great!  Not only are the fun and easy to paint, they look great on the pitch as Score counters.  The Azure forest trophy beautifully complements the lush illustrations of it’s jungle pitch.  DreadBall NEEDS more of this.  MORE planetary pitches!  MORE custom trophies!

WORST TROPHY = DreadBall “Grid”

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And then there’s this.  It’s not rubbish, but it’s not a ruby either.  I just don’t understand the cropped pitch.  It’s not a strike zone.  It’s not a sin bin.  It’s not a launch lane.  It’s just a bunch of hexes.

10.  EASIEST TEAM TO PAINT = Ada Lorana

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Great team with great sculpts!  Painting them wasn’t exactly effortless, but it wasn’t a chore. Spray Matt. Paint highlight. Wash. Drybrush and detail highlights again. Spray gloss. Hand paint base in Matt finish. DONE!

HARDEST TEAM TO PAINT = Crystallan

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Great team with great sculpts!  These rocky rollers were a total bear to beautify.  Picking out the translucent blue plastic was an essay in patience and/or insanity.

11.  EASIEST MVP TO PAINT = Slalaran Vesh

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Wet-on-wet, wash-on-wash, and a bit of highlighting. DONE!

HARDEST MVP TO PAINT = Grak

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Fun bits to paint, but wow is there a lot of ’em.

12.  EASIEST TEAM CAPTAIN TO PAINT = Graggot

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Beautiful resin casts are also beautiful to paint. It’s a pretty simple equation. Good data in = good data out. For Graggot, it was only four colors followed by a wash and a bit of drybrushing.

HARDEST TEAM CAPTAIN TO PAINT = Kryphos

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The Koris. Again! Same complaints as before, now applied to painting. Kryphos is too small and too soft. With no dynamic relief, there’s less to work with and that leaves a painter up to their own devices.  A challenge for some.  But for me?  Nope.  I prefer painting better models.

13.  WTF (Where the F***) AWARD = Koris Portal Tokens

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In order for a component rule to function, you need the component. With great mystery then do we have a team with a very clever gimmick missing the very component needed to function! Truly, WTF.  If there are any Koris Coaches out there, I would love to see how you created your portal tokens.

14.  FUNNIEST AWARD = Drake

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Wrapping up on a high note – Drake!  Drake takes the cake.  This model is positively gonzo.  A human boy riding an armored miniature dinosaur.  There’s accompanying flavor text which may or may not confirm the boy is a hologram.  It doesn’t matter.  This physical sculpt is bloody hysterical and it’s a prime example of why I love DreadBall.

Agree, or disagree below.  Long live DreadBall. Long live CORT.

Hobby Highlight: More Crystallans

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So in the wake of my last article where I talked about how I painted my Crystallan team, I now find myself painting MORE Crystallans.

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“Paint Us!”

For the previous article I pulled out a brand new bag of Crystallans so I could take a picture of what the unpainted translucent blue minis look like. And then they sat on my desk. Normally I’d have grabbed a baggie and shove the minis in it and put them away. But I’m moving in a month so a lot of my supplies (such as baggies) have been packed away already. Thus the Crystallan minis sat on my desk. Staring at me, whispering “paint us”, “paint us”. So… I decided to paint them. 😛

I thought about painting the new Crystallans to match the original ones I’d already done, bolster the team and give myself more options. After some consideration I thought it would be more fun to paint these minis up in a different theme and make them a separate team of Crystallans.

Step 1, deciding what colors to do them. Using Photoshop as shown in a previous article I mocked up a few color schemes. Ultimately I decided on a dark grey/black rock, red crystals, and golden armor.

 

 

 

Step 2 is assembling the minis. While the Crystallan DreadBall minis come assembled, I use my own custom base system (see this article), so I need to cut off and replace the bases the minis come on. I also wanted to change the look of the minis a bit so I did a few arm swaps, cutting off the arms of some of the minis and re-positioning and switching the arms between them.

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Arms swapped and re-positioned, primed, ready for painting.

So far I’ve only primed these new Crystallans, but in the next article I do, I will show you the finished minis as well as the how-to-paint instructions for how I painted them.

Hobby Highlight: Painting my Crystallans

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In this article I breakdown how I painted my Crystallan DreadBall team. As always any colors I refer to, unless stated otherwise, are Army Painter colors.

If you weren’t aware the Crystallan DreadBall minis come in a translucent blue plastic.

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You can achieve a neat effect by leaving part of the models unpainted. I knew I didn’t want to leave the translucent plastic of the minis showing through since the (then MVP) now Team Captain wasn’t also produced in the translucent blue plastic.

Using Photoshop I decided I wanted to go with grey rock and purple crystals.

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I started as I usually do by priming the miniature grey. Since I painted this team before I had an airbrush I used Army Painter Uniform Grey spray primer.

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Having the grey base was a great start on my grey rocks. I washed the minis with Dark Tone followed by several progressively lighter dry brushes from Uniform Grey all the way to White.

The armor parts I based in Wolf Grey. I applied a Dark Tone wash which I then re-highlighted with he Wolf Grey. A further highlight of Game Color Wolf Grey was used before a final glaze of Crystal Blue.

Finally the crystals. I based the crystals in Game Color Squid Pink and then applied a wash of Purple Tone. Finally using White I did fine outlining of the crystals.

Here is a gallery of the results.

 

Hobby Highlight: The DreadBall Trophies

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The trophies of DreadBall.

The Stanley Cup.  The Claret Jug.  The Yellow Jersey.  The All Valley Karate Championship Trophy…

All sports celebrate their best with a trophy.  DreadBall is no different.  Under Digby’s first edition regime, the penultimate award for winning was a GOLDEN BLAINE.

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Editor’s Note: I won TWO Golden Blaines

Showcasing a trophy in your display cabinet is not optional.  It’s mandatory.  Perhaps a display cabinet is not within reach of every coach.  Alternatives can be made; on top of your icebox, fireplace mantel, or even car hood are perfectly fine locations.  Regardless, it must be visible.

Any yet, trophies have little practical use during DreadBall game play.  Beyond the psychological effect of their presence near an opponent –  they’re too large, too precious, and too heavy.  But there is a solution.  It’s a micro-solution.  It’s the DreadBall Trophy miniatures!

There are six.

[1-3] Previously available only from the first DreadBall Kickstarter, three metal trophies are now included in organized play kits.

[4] Previously available only in the Azure Forest expansion, the planet’s metal trophy is now included in the exceptional Galactic Tour expansion.  Go ahead and buy it.  You’ll want the Medi-Bot and cheerleaders…

[5] Previously available from the first DreadBall Kickstarter and organized play kits, the restic DreadBall Pitch trophy is still available via the Mantic Points system.

[6] Never before available until this BreadDoll post, the restic Golden Blaine!  Pulled from the DreadBall Xtreme game, sponsor Blaine is the same sculpt as the coveted LARGE Golden Blaine.  It’s time to convert him from his role as MVP and sponsor to a miniature trophy.

These six trophies can be used for any sideline role.  A score maker and rush tracker make most sense, but they can even proxy for a cheerleader or coach.  Regardless, they’ll need to rest on a DreadBall base.

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Coaches, prep your bases! Fill 1st edition bases with filler and sand smooth. Wood putty was used in this image.
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Bases were prematurely primed with Army Painter Matt Black. Metal trophies were initially primed with Rustoleum Universal Bonding Primer. Afterwards, minimal flashing was removed with an x-acto blade.
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All trophies were glued to bases with Loctite Go2 Glue, and primed black with Army Painter Matt Black.

With models prepped and raring to go, it’s time to slap paint on them.  With the exception of the Azure Forest trophy, these models are very easy to paint.  For those coaches unfamiliar with the technique of dry brushing, this is a friendly project to begin learning.  In the event of an “accident,” it’s very simple to course correct.

 

Using Army Painter’s Greedy Gold, and a very inexpensive hobby flat hobby brush, load a brush with paint only to remove the majority of it over a dry paper towel.  Even though  all of the paint may appear to be wasted on a piece of disposable towel, pigment still exists on the bristles.  Lightly swipe the brush over the model, and the paint remnants will adhere to the high relief.  It’s a subtle effect over black primer, and that’s fine.  Cover the entire model.  Then, do it again.  The next step is not necessary, but it does offer some additional depth; after the second pass at dry brushing apply a dark wash over the entire model.  Once dry, apply a third pass of gold dry brushing.  Clean up the base with Matt black and varnish with a Matt spray.  Done!

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Do the same with the other models, experimenting with other metallic colors as desired.
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An unnecessary step, but it does add a bit more ‘bling,’ dry brush a layer of Metal Medium over the metallic trophies. Keep in mind; a spray varnish will potentially conceal a portion of this layer.

The Azure model is a bit more challenging.  Using the same dry brushing technique, pass the entire model with a layer of dark gray, followed by light gray, and finish with a white.  A nice achromatic model is ready for some detailing!  Cover the front of the shield with a watered down white.  Once dry, maybe apply another coat of watery paint – but this time use a combination of white, green, and yellow ochre.  Follow up with an application of two or three very watery passes of white over the center of the shield.  While the shield dries, block in the spears with gray, brown, and yellow ochre.  Once that brown is on the palette, water it down and streak it from the edges of the shield towards its center.  Apply some thin green paint to the leaves, and dab some warm colors into the torch.  Almost done!  A tint of green can be dry brushed over the leaves, and the entire shield and spears can receive a wash of brown.  Once dry, apply some war paint streaks of red to the shield’s front.  Clean up the base with Matt black, and spray varnish to complete.

Almost every coach has the same score marker, rush tracker.  And while coaches and cheerleaders offer more variety – these trophies are stand outs.  During league play, they may serve as constant reminders to your regular opponents, “I’m better than you.”  During tournament play, they can be excellent conversation starters.

“How did you win that All Valley trophy?  It’s awesome!”
“My Coach told me to kick my opponent in the face.”

Hobby Highlight: Better Tokens

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DreadBall Team Tokens from the original Kickstarter

Here’s a quick tip on how to improve your engraved acrylic tokens. Often these tokens are simply laser engraved and delivered as is. They usually look pretty good but colouring in the engraving really improves their look.

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Uncoloured Token

Using a regular crayon of the colour you want the engraving to be, fill in the engraved area. Don’t worry about getting crayon on the non-engraved part.

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Colour in the engraved areas with a crayon.

After the engraving is coloured in use a paper towel or a dryer sheet to wipe off the excess crayon. Lay the paper towel flat on a table. Place the token, engraved side down, on the paper towel and rub it around to clean it off. You want to keep the token flat against the paper towel so only the non-engraved surface is wiped clean, leaving the crayon filling the engraving.

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Engraving coloured and excess crayon cleaned away.

 

It’s pretty easy to do and the results are great in my experience. I tend to use white crayon on darker coloured acrylic and black crayon on lighter coloured acrylic.

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Forge Father tokens all coloured and cleaned. The white really stands out now.

Important: make sure the acrylic token has a smooth surface before doing this. If the surface is textured it will trap the excess crayon and you won’t be able to wipe it off.

Hobby Highlight: Painting my Marauders

Let’s take a look at how I painted one of the first few teams I painted, the Marauders.

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Priming

Since these minis were painted back before I owned an airbrush, I primed them using Army Painter Uniform Grey spray primer.

 

Blue Armor

I started by painting the whole of the armor with Army Painter Wolf Grey. I then washed the Wolf Grey with Blue Tone. I dry brushed over that with the Wolf Grey again before doing a more directed highlight with the wolf grey. Finally I did a second highlight using a 1:1 mix of Wolf Grey and White.

 

White Armor

For the white armor I carefully painted white over the blue leaving the lines dividing the armor unpainted. I then did a light wash of Crystal Blue thinned down with water.

 

 

Skin

I started with Greenskin for the skin (obvious right?) and then gave it a wash of Green Tone. I did a first highlight using Goblin Green and then a second highlight using a 1:1 mix of Goblin Green and Necrotic Flesh.

Grey Armor Parts

I used the same armor grey formula I use frequently. The Uniform Grey base had a Dark Tone wash applied, then was highlighted back up using Uniform Grey again, followed by Ash Grey.

 

Red

For the red I started with a base of 2:1 Pure Red and Ash Grey washed with Red Tone. I then did a second wash with Red Tone to really darken the shading. I did a highlight of Pure Red followed by a second highlight of 1:1 Pure Red and Skeleton Bone.

I also painted the eyes red with a tiny white highlight.

Brown

The leather straps where done with Leather Brown washed with a Strong Tone and highlighted using Dessert Yellow.

Claws and Teeth

I used Skeleton Bone for the base and then applied a wash of Soft Tone to the edge of the area. A white highlight was used to finish them.

 

And there you have it. The last thing I did was to paint a “J” or a “G” on the minis’ back to indicate the player’s Role.

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That’s how I painted my Marauder team.

Marauder_Team

Tournament Time / Hobby Highlight: C-4 2018 & the BLAINE BAR

Sunday April 15, 2018.  Victory Comics.  Falls Church, Virginia.  United States of America. The North American DreadBall Circuit (NADC) sweeps through the region and offers four rounds of intense, intergalactic, competition.

It’s the Cocoa Castle Corporation Cup, or C-4 for short.  Of course there’s a backstory, and it should be consumed before the Blaine Bar tutorial below.

The story thus far:

In 896AE, Chief Culinary Specialist Konrad Castle was stationed aboard the CCS Dread. His delectable prowess caught the sweet tooth of then Captain Jesus Ortiz, who would often encounter the chef during late night pantry raids. While enjoying chocolate petit fours, Ortiz would solicit Kastle for advice on his new recreational sport in hangar 91. A lifelong friendship blossomed in the Dread galley.

After military service, Castle became principal financier of an upstart corporataion specializing in explosives manufacturing. It was not a sound business decision. It was a bust. With retirement funds squandered, Castle asked long-time friend Ortiz, now Chairman of the DGB, for a helping hand. Ortize graciously replied, donating the funds to retool Castle’s corporate warehouses into a kitchen empire. A dream come true, Castle happily abandoned his efforts at armament sales for his life’s calling; Chocolate.

Reciprocating the generosity of Ortiz, Castle’s new corportation not only serves as the official Chocolatier of Digby, it also hosts a cavity inducing DreadBall tournament:

The Cocoa Castle Corporation Cup (C-4).

Konrad Castle wouldn’t reward the C-4 winner with just an ordinary trophy.  No way!  Instead, the Champion gets CHOCOLATE.  Golden Blaine?  Ha!  The C-4 has a BLAINE BAR.  There is nothing better in the galaxy that an edible totem of the infamous mercenary trapped in a casket of carbonite.  I mean, cocoa.

Here’s how it was done.

With molten chocolate in hand (and a little in mouth), a steady pour and patience to dry resulted in…

IMG_7202

May the best Coach enjoy this morsel of mayhem.  And remember, even the worst Coach doesn’t leave hungry.  Last place gets a BreadDoll.  All coaches go back to the local room with a custom Home / Visitor card.  And there’ll be some certificates and more chocolate delicacies to boot.  Good luck to everyone attending the C-4!  Interested competitors may still attend.  Please visit DreadBall.com.

Hobby Highlight: Painting my Neo-bots

In my second article on painting a DreadBall team, let’s look at the Neo-bots.

striker2

 

Priming

I started, as always, with a gray primer. These days I use Stynylrez Gray Primer sprayed on using an airbrush.

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Orange Base

The armor’s orange hue was started by spraying a base coat of colors using the airbrush, moving from Dragon Red -> Lava Orange -> Light Orange -> Light Orange:White (1:1)

base-orange

 

Base Colors

After the orange base was sprayed on I painted the other base colors. For the blue, a 1:1 mix of Deep Blue and Necromancer Cloak. For the grey, Uniform Grey.

base-colors

Orange

On top of the sprayed base coat, I lined the orange areas using a thinned down Blood Red (Game Color)

gc_bloody_red

dark-lining

Next, I applied Highlights along the edges using a 1:1 mix of Pale Yellow and Light Orange, followed by a spot highlight with just Pale Yellow.

orange-hilight

Blue

The blue was highlighted using a 1:1 mix of Deep Blue and Crystal Blue followed by a further highlight using straight Crystal Blue.

Grey

The Uniform Grey base had a Dark Tone wash applied, then was highlighted back up using Uniform Grey again, followed by Ash Grey.

Eyes

For the eyes I dry brushed Pure Red heavily around the visor and then put dots of pur white on the eyes over the red.

Base

The base is painted in plain black.

ap_matt_black

 

 

 

Finished

Hobby Highlight: DreadBall Bases (Part 2)

CORT_pattern

Once you’ve decided on how you’re going to base your DreadBall minis, you have to decide how you’re going to paint the base. Some coaches like the unpainted, clear look, but for this post; we’ll assume you’re going to paint your bases.

You could just pick your favourite colour and slap it on the base.  However, a DreadBall base ideally needs to convey which edges are the threat hexes.  Painting your DreadBall base also provides an opportunity to show additional information.  Using different colours on your bases can indicate the Role (Guard/Jack/Striker) of the particular model.

There are a few different colour patterns which the DreadBall community uses to indicate a player’s Role.

Stoplight Pattern

  • Red: Guard
  • Yellow: Jack
  • Green: Striker

Patriotic Pattern

  • Red: Guard
  • White: Jack
  • Blue: Striker

Greyscale Pattern

  • Black: Guard
  • Grey: Jack
  • White: Striker

Below are several different pattern examples for DreadBall bases indicating the threat hexes and player Roles.  In these diagrams I used my Mark V base as the template being coloured (for more info on the Mark V base see Part 1 of these DreadBall base articles).