At Adepticon back in March I decided to play a Cyborg team. I wanted to go for a chrome look. I mocked up some color tests. I liked the way the chrome effect looked in the tests and decided to see how it would look painted on the minis.
PAINTING MY CYBORGS
Primer: Airbrush Stynylrez Grey
Spray entire mini with Reaper MSP 09029: Earth Brown
Wash with Army Painter Strong Tone
Spray from above with white
Lighter spray from above with Army Painter Troglodyte Blue
Run black outlines along the armor lines and recesses
In the armor breaks use Army Painter Necromancer Cloak
Highlight the edges of the armor with white
Army Painter Necrotic Flesh
Wash with Secret Weapon Sewer Water
Highlight using Necrotic Flesh mixed with white
Army Painter Wolf Grey
Citadel Nuln Oil wash
Highlight with Wolf Grey
Army Painter Leather Brown
Wash with Citadel Agrax Earth Shade
Highlight with Leather Brown mixed with Army Painter Ash Grey
Paint the eyes white
Paint the glowy bits red adding a bit of a glow effect with a light drybrush
Add a white highlight to the red glowy bits
Paint the wires with Game Color Sun Yellow and then wash them with Secret Weapon Orange wash
Highlight the wires with a mix of Sun Yellow and white
I always like to do a fun logo for my teams when I have time. For Renewed Vigor I looked around for a zombie silhouette and then made it look a more cyborg-ish.
Magnetising your DreadBalls is a fun and practical hobby project. You drill a hole in the bottom of your ball and glue in a magnet. You drill a hole(s) in your miniatures’ bases and glue matching magnets in the bases, taking care to align the polarity correctly otherwise the magnets will repel each other instead of snap together as desired. (Check out this article on magnetising your bases: LINK)
STEP 1: Choosing a ball
There are a few options when is comes to the DreadBalls that are available.
First Edition DreadBall used 6mm balls on a small attached base
Second Edition DreadBall comes with small 4mm balls that detach from their base
You can make or 3D print a custom ball. I use a custom 8mm ball on a base with the same profile as the first edition ball. You can download the 3D print file for my custom DreadBall from Thingiverse.
In this tutorial I’m going to use my custom, 8mm, ball as the example but the exact same process can be used with all the different balls.
NOTE: If you decide to use the smaller, 2nd Edition, ball(s) I’d recommend gluing the ball into it’s base and letting the glue dry before continuing to step 2 of this tutorial.
STEP 2: Drill a hole
So you’ve chosen your ball and need a hole to put the magnet in. Use a pin vise and a 2mm drill bit to make your hole. You can use a marker to put a little dot where you want the hole to be or you can “eyeball” it but you probably want the magnet in the center of the ball’s base.
Don’t drill too deep. The magnet I’d recommend using is 2mm x 1mm so the hole only needs to be 1mm deep. If you use a larger ball you could use a longer magnet (such as 2mm x 3mm) in which case you’d drill a bit deeper. When you are finished drilling your ball will have a nice hole in the bottom.
STEP 3: Glue in the magnet
Now that your ball has a nice hole to put a magnet in, it’s time to glue in the magnet.
For the official 4mm or 6mm balls I’d recommend using a 2mm x 1mm neodymium magnet. You can get these magnets on Amazon and eBay or you can Google about for other sources. Many game/hobby stores carry magnets as well for just these types of miniatures hobby projects.
When magnetising a larger ball you can use a longer magnet. I use a 2mm x 3mm magnet in my balls. You can buy longer magnets or just stack the 1mm thick magnets to make 2mm x 2mm or 2mm x 3mm sizes.
Magnets have polarity, a North and a South pole. For compatibility’s sake I suggest gluing the magnet into you ball with the North pole towards the sky. If we all do this then all our balls will snap to each other’s bases. To determine the polarity of your magnets see this previous article: LINK
Regardless of whether or not you choose to make sure your balls compatible with everyone else’s, make sure you glue the magnet in your ball and base in matching orientation. You don’t want your base to repel your ball.
Use superglue. I like Gorilla Glue brand but any will work fine. Squirt some glue out on a piece of paper or card and then use a toothpick to apply the glue into the hole you drilled. Making sure the magnet is in the orientation you want and then push it into the hole. Use a non-magnetic tool or the table top to make sure the magnet is flush with the bottom of the ball.
That’s it. Once the glue is dry you have a magnetised ball that will snap on to your magnetised base when your player picks it up. Paint it up all pretty-like and play DreadBall!
I’m very proud of the base system I have settled on for my DreadBall minis. I call what I use now my Mark V base system (as it’s the 5th version I’ve made). You can read about the evolution of the design in my first article on bases: Base Design
Most people that see my bases like them and I’d like to share the 3d (STL) files here for anyone that wants to use them.
The bases are designed to be used with magnets. Specifically Neodymium magnets. The main, central magnet is a 10mm x 1mm disc magnet. The magnets for attaching the ball are 2mm x 1mm disc magnets (the ball will also require a matching magnet).
Neodymium magnets come in different strengths from N35 (weak) up to N52 (strong). I prefer the stronger magnets and try to use N50 or N52 for my bases.
You can find the magnets on eBay and Amazon with a bit of searching. Here are a few links to get you started.
So now everyone has the files and have printed the bases. Everyone has acquired magnets and are ready to put the bases together. How do we ensure that my bases are compatible with all of your bases?
As you are probably aware, magnets have a North and a South pole. This is the polarity of the magnet.
It is unlikely that your magnets with be marked to indicate which end is North and which South so we’ll need to determine the polarity ourselves. Thankfully once you have done this once you can simple use any previously assembled bases as a guide for the future.
The easiest way to determine the polarity of your magnets is either with a bowl of water and some foam/styrofoam or with a string.
tie a string around a stack of a few of your disc magnets
allow the magnets to rotate freely
when they stop spinning, the end that is pointing North is the North pole of the magnet
fill a bowl with enough water to float a small piece of foam or styrofoam in
take a stack of a few of your disc magnets and lay them on the foam in the water
the magnets will rotate around when they stop spinning, the end that is pointing North is the North pole of the magnet
Once you know the polarity mark it on the magnets with a sharpie (or similar) so you don’t lose track.
Now that you know the polarity of your magnets use the following diagram to glue in your magnets.
Red = North Polarity
Blue = South Polarity
If you follow these instructions then all of our bases and balls will be fully compatible when we meet up to play. We will be able to share bases and balls as needed.
If you have any questions please comment on the article or email me at email@example.com
Adepticon 2019 was this past weekend. I was lucky enough to attend for my 5th year in a row. Ever since my first trip to the Chicago area back in 2015, Adepticon has been my favourite gaming convention. I’ve met so many good friends while attending these conventions and as always part of the greatness of the convention is getting to see them all in person again. There were several opportunities to play DreadBall at Adepticon this year and I took advantage of all of them
LEAGUE IN A NIGHT (LiaN)
Thursday night was League in a Night. BreadDoll takes credit for creating this event last year and it was back again in 2019. With 12 coaches participating, this year was twice the size of last year.
Not only were there twice as many coaches, in my opinion this years was twice the fun. League in a Night is a relaxed, fun event. Four rounds of DreadBall are played using the League rules for DreadBall.
I’m happy to say yours truly pulled out a win in the end having the best winning record (4-0) if not the highest ranking team in terms of megacredits.
If I could only play one DreadBall event at Adepticon it would be League in a Night!
I will quickly mention Deadzone since I played in the tournament on Friday. As you may not have heard of Deadzone, it’s another game by Mantic, a skirmish game set in the DreadBall Universe. Deadzone tends to take all it’s best ideas from DreadBall ( 😛 ) and the Nameless have now made their way over I painted up a Nameless team. I lost but I won best painted. I had fun. Moving on.
Saturday was the DreadBall Adepticorp Cup. This is the North American DreadBall Championship tournament. There were 10 coaches competing this year. While it’s not the most coaches I’ve seen participating for the North American title, the competition was fierce! Over the course of four rounds I went 3-1-0 and pulled off a tournament win and the Championship by a very, VERY narrow margin. TWO fan check was the difference between winning and losing.
Geoff Burbidge – Cyborgs
Volker Jacobsen – Sphyr
Andrew Sharp – Yndij
Benjamin Kinne – Zee
Andrew Wodzianski – Convicts
Rob Shlemkevich – Yndij
Natasha Gray – Sphyr
Anthony Sarlo – Sphyr
Dom Laurion – Yndij
Jack B. – Sphyr
Best Painted – Geoff Burbidge
Fan Favorite – Geoff Burbidge
Most Brutal – Anthony Sarlo
Best Sportsman – Benjamin Kinne
Thanks to Bryan Novak for running the tournament and providing the results.
After the Adepticorp Cup we only had a couple hours until Mantic Night. It has become a BreadDoll tradition now to run a game of DreadBall Ultimate during Mantic Night which we did again this year. I will leave it to my BreadDoll colleague to provide the details since he was running it but Ultimate was played and everyone playing had a blast! Here are a few pics.
Adepticon was amazing! I am already looking forward to the next one in 2020. If you can come I highly recommend it. And if you do and you want a game of DreadBall just let me know, we’ll make it happen. There’s no such thing as too many friends or too much DreadBall!
Adepticon 2019 in Schaumburg Illinois (outside Chicago) is just over 2 weeks away. There are several DreadBall Events going on you won’t want to miss if you are going to be there.
The Adepticorp Cup – This is the big tournament that determines the North American DreadBall Champion for the year. It’s four matches of DreadBall played on Saturday March 30th from 9am to 5pm. Location: ADVENTURE HALL
DreadBall: League in a Night (LiaN) – This is DreadBall league play. Four games of DreadBall carrying over the developments of each prior game into the next. Players rank up and get injured! Captains and MVPs are hired! LiaN is the Thursday evening from 5pm to Midnight. Location: UTOPIA
DreadBall Ultimate: Clash of the Giants – this epic game of DreadBall Ultimate brings the “big” talent to the pitch. This game will be happening at Mantic Open Night, Saturday night starting at 8pm. Get your ticket here.
Don’t worry if you want to play but haven’t pre-registered. You can register at Adepticon when you get there or just show up with your entry fee at the correct place and time and there will be a seat for you.
I’ve wanted to get a DreadBall League going again for a few years now. A while back some friends and I had a small League but it wasn’t well organised and eventually fell apart. The time has come to give it another try.
We are stating small with 4 coaches. We’d hoped to get 6, which seems like a good number, but we decided better to just start than spend any more time recruiting. That said, if you are in Ontario and want to join let me know (firstname.lastname@example.org) ASAP, and we’ll see if we can work it out. If you’re on the fence stay tuned for updates on Season 1 of the Ontario DreadBall League (ODBL or OddBall). We’ll likely do a Season 2 starting in the summer and look to expand the number of coaches participating.
The plan is to have each coach play each other coach twice. One game will be as the Home coach and the other as the Away/Visiting coach. We’ll have 2 weeks to organise and play each match. With 6 matches on the schedule the league should take about 3 months. This will work with only 4 coaches. Once we expand the league we will have to revisit how we run the schedule. Maybe divisions?
I have decided to play Brokkr in Season 1 of the ODBL. I was planning to play them at Adepticon this year so choosing them for this league will incentivize me to get them painted and ready to go.
I will also magnetise the Brokkr Guard(s) arms and heads so they can be converted to Keepers over the course of the league.
I will have more information on the ODBL in my next article. Hopefully we’ll have at least played our first match and I’ll have pics of my painted Brokkr team. Wish me luck and I’ll talk to you in 3 weeks.
The truth can be hard to believe. It was once thought that there was only one last surviving Elastopod. Truly. This is ridiculous. There are 8 9.
The Elastopod home world was destroyed when a starship carrying unknown alien artefacts exploded, obliterating the entire Elstopod home system. This was almost the end of the Elastopod race. Luckily the members of the Elastopod Special Forces Bravo Squad were on patrol in a ship at the far edges of their solar system. When their planet was destroyed Bravo Squad survived. Really.
Making their way to the GCPS, Bravo Squad now plies their advanced military training on the neodurium pitches of the pro DreadBall leagues. They are a team to be feared no matter what some may say. Elastopods are not all bumbling goofs as rumor would have it. It’s unclear where that rumor began but the Sole Survivors are having none of it. Match after match the last of the Elastopods teach their opponents to respect Elastopods once again.
I painted my Z’zor a few years ago now. I was living in Vancouver Canada for a month for work and it happened that a pretty nice game store there happened to be starting a league at that time. Here is how I painted the Hiveworld 8 Warriors.
I went with a green and orange color scheme. I tested it out in Photoshop before starting.
As always I use primarily Army Painter paints.
I used a grey spray can primer to prime the minis and then applied a Goblin Green base coat. I used Green Tone as a wash and then used a series of drybrushings from Goblin Green up to Vallejo Line Green. Finally on the green parts I did a highlight with Lime Green and White.
The orange bits I started with a Secret Weapon Sewer Water wash over the green base and then Vallejo Light Orange. I thinned the Light Orange down with water and applied multiple coats the achieve a bit of a blend. I highlighted further with Vallejo Pale Yellow.
For the torso/stomach plates I also used Pale Yellow but here as the base color. I washed it with Vallejo Sepia wash but you could also use Soft Tone, they’re very similar. After the wash I did a touch-up highlight with the Pale Yellow again and then with a mix of the Pale Yellow and White.
On the joints I used Hydra Turquoise with a Dark Tone wash, highlighting back up a bit after the wash using Hydra Turquoise again.
As mentioned in my last article “The Law” there were rules in 1st Edition DreadBall for an alternate referee: Ref Dredd. It’s a small change that can be made when playing the game that can add a bit of variety and a lot of fun. Along the same lines I present a few alternative DreadBalls:
The Adepticorp DreadBall
Rules: If playing with the Adepticorp DreadBall any player that takes damage from being hit by the ball is treated as Fragile when rolling their Armor Test. Additionally if the Ball Shatters card is played all players in the same hex as the ball or adjacent hexes must make a Dodge test vs 6 dice (4+) or be hit by shards of the ball.
The Mark 2 DreadBall
Rules: If playing with the Mark 2 DreadBall, the Ball cannot shatter. If the Ball Shatters Special card is played ignore it’s effect. Instead the player that played the card may look through the discard pile and take any 1 card they find there into their hand. The Mark 2 DreadBall is not only more durable, but also more aerodynamic with advanced gravity generators. When throwing the ball farther than 4 hexes treat all distances as 1 hex less.
The Bumper DreadBall
Rules: The Bumper DreadBall bounces. If playing with the Bumper DreadBall, after a the ball is launched roll to scatter it. The ball can be caught on this scatter. The Bumper DreadBall allows a Bounce Pass. When throwing the ball to a player on your team or at an opposing player it can be bounced off the wall of the pitch. Any time the Bumper DreadBall scatters (other than after launching), always scatter it an additional time.
These alternative DreadBall and their associated rules can be swapped into any game of DreadBall for a bit of flavor and extra fun.
Rules Reference Cards:
Here are STL files if you are so inclined to print a ball to play with using these rules: